I’ve managed to squeeze in an extra trip to Scandinavia before the end of the summer, and once again, I fell in love with Copenhagen…
SP34 (named after its address, Sankt Peders Stræde 34) is a hotel that has been getting a lot of love on social media in the past few years, and one I kept saving pictures of. Luckily, we traveled after the summer vacations so we were able to get a room for cheaper. The location was brilliant, and so was their free wine hour before dinner.
When it comes to food, there is nowhere like Copenhagen. Dishes are created around the season’s fresh produce, and people put their heart and soul into what they cook. There’s always an unexpected finishing touch that makes the meals stand out from anything else you’ve ever tried. Of course, when in Denmark, do like the Danes, and try their smørrebrød: an open sandwich usually consisting of rye bread topped with meat, fish or potatoes, and finished with fresh herbs and a delicious spread. You can find one pretty much everywhere but I would recommend visiting Torvehallerne (Frederiksborggade 21), an urban market with lots of different stands. Another classic of Scandinavian culture is the cardamom bun. On the second day we stopped at Juno the bakery (Århusgade 48) and had one straight out the oven. For breakfast and lunch, I would recommend going to Sonny (Rådhusstræde 5), a very cozy café in the heart of Copenhagen. We went there three times during the trip, which was amazing because I feel in love with the place, their menu, and their signature thyme lemonade. For dinner, we first went to Manfreds (Jægersborggade 40), a very intimate spot specialising in tartar and vegetable-based dishes. We shared a table outside with other guests and it was extremely convivial. And finally, another highlight of this food journey was Vækst (Sankt Peders Stræde 34), the restaurant of our hotel. The interior looks like a greenhouse, and they’ve outdone themselves in terms of service. They’ve surprises us with dishes served on the house before our main course, and let me tell you: the homemade butter and bread as well as the fish cake (I think that’s what it was?) was out of this world.
Going to a city like Copenhagen and not visiting the local boutiques should be considered a crime. The local brands, although quite under the international spotlight right now, do their best to keep the feeling of community going. Most stores carry stocks from their local “competitors”, which they would definitely call their friends. Scandinavian fashion focuses a lot on quality and durability. There’s no doubt if you get a piece from Stine Goya, Baum Und Pferdgarten, Samsøe Samsøe, Cecilie Bahnsen, Saks Potts, Ganni or Gestuz that you’ll keep it forever (a lot of them are great addresses to check out by the way). The highlight for me was definitely to visit the Mads Nørgaard shop (Amagertorv 13 - 15). I already own pieces from this designer and have recently read about the rich history of his brand and the 101 t-shirt, so it was fantastic to see his selection in real life.
As this was my second time in Copenhagen, I did not go back to all the tourist sights, but would still highly recommend them (but I went back to the castles, Amalienborg and Rosenborg, and the botanical garden). I think the best thing about Copenhagen is how easy it is to bike there, and although I’ve managed to squeeze in a little bike ride, I wish I’d taken advantage of this a bit more. We also went to the Design Museum (Bredgade 68), absolutely worth it for its chair room featuring a few of Hans Wegner’s iconic designs, and Glyptoteket (Dantes Plads 7), which has the best architecture and beautiful sculptures.
There’s no doubt I’ll be back in the city very soon (but in Scandinavia even sooner yay)! If you have more time in the city check out Atelier September, Beau Marché café à vins, and Rundertaarn. Next time, I would love to have lunch at Apollo bar, have drinks at the Nobis Hotel and go on a boat ride around the harbour.
Have you been to Copenhagen? What are your favourite spots?